Latches and Such.

Did I get everything?

As of 1-02-2007 (updated)

Happy New Year!

This part is taxing my engineering abilities. This is one area where I did actually go to the “manual” to see how it was described. I looked at the trunk latch and the trunk lid and started scratching my head. I resorted to the backup plan of opening the manual to see if they had anything on it. Yes, and even a picture. I would never had guessed to cut a hole in the bottom of the mounting area and mount the latch inside. But it worked out pretty well and was easy to do. In the manual they pictured a gasket for the outside latch for which I did not receive. I will have to make it.

 

I’m not so sure about how the catch for the latch mounted. I would have liked to keep the lip on the trunk but was unable to as to this is also the way it was pictured in the “manual”. This seems to present a problem for the trunk gasket that will be installed after bodywork and paint, but that is for another day.

 

Next came the door latches. This was not too bad on the door side but is requiring (present tense) some engineering on the body side. The backing plate mounts pretty straight forward and I used the interior for the door to line up the location on the door. There is a metal plate glassed into the door under where it mounts so I drilled and tapped it to allow a cleaner install. The mechanism screws to the back plate and then the chrome cover has two REALLY SMALL screws to attach it to the assembly.

 

Now is where the engineering/fabrication began. I tore through all the boxes and packages looking for something that would resemble a bracket to mount the striker portion to the body and all I found were two caped bolts that looked like the ones in the “manual”. Since the striker is 90 deg from the mounting point on the body and in my pea brain, needs to be adjustable for the door to close correctly, I began sawing, cutting, drilling, filing, etc… until I had something that would work. The two brackets a side will allow both up and down and in and out adjustment.

I started off by inserting the striker into the mounted latch and then cut a couple of pieces of angle iron for the 90 deg mount. I used it to mark the location of the caped bolts and drilled the holes. I used a dremel tool to square off the holes to fit the shoulder of the bolt.

 

I had to cut another two pieces of angle iron and then bolt them together. I slotted the holes in the pieces to allow adjustment. I tapped the piece that connected to the striker to allow easier mounting. This will also allow me to remove it separate from the rest of the assembly.

            

Also during this stretch of time, I cut out the needed area for the side pipes. I suggest not doing this until all of the engine and side pipes have been installed, with the body off. I say this because the marks were not where the cuts needed to be on the passenger side. I could have torqued the engine and transmission over to allow it to fit but it sure seemed to put a strain in the mounts and then the tail of the transmission was not in line with the differential. I decided that being off a ½ in on the cutout was better and would not (in all probability) be noticed without running back and forth between the sides to compare with a ruler!

    

Now, how much clearance is needed to keep from scorching the paint?

   

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